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How do you lubricate your joystick?

My cyborg evo has been like sticky lately. I can't push or pull the stick smoothly
I'm guessing tat the problem lies on that plastic washer below the gimbal spring.

any help would be appreciated ~

My Saitek X52 Pro is only a week old. Still, I did notice the need for lubrication at the plastic/metal interface (I don't know if the X52 Pro is built exactly like the Evo).

I used Moly Disulphide (Molybdenum Disulphide, MoS2). Its the premium dry lube -- perfect for this use. BUT, it is usually hard to get in small quantities and expensive. I keep it around because its the best. Google for suppliers.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

I assume dry powder graphite lube (as used on Pinewood Derby cars) would work almost as well. Its a general lubricant for many purposes and is more readily available (however, I have not tried it for this purpose). Google for suppliers.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/346351/Tube-O-Lube_31644G_Dry_Powder_Graphite_Lubricant

Silicone grease could do the job -- and not attack the plastic. Its a great "wet" lube -- the best for many uses. The downside is dust collection (as with any "wet" lube) -- that is mitigated by using the most microscopic layer (don't goop it on). It too is available in small/expensive quantities. BTW, Moly Disulphide grease would have the same dust collection problem (but Moly is best used dry where possible). I keep silicone grease in my home shop too -- but have not tried it on the Saitek.

I am also deciding on what lube to use on the center-post where the metal washer spring mechanism rides up and down the metal post-- haven't picked one yet -- probably will pick something out of my lube-box that goes in as a liquid (to get between the washer and post) and subsequently "dries". Nonetheless, I imagine a wet lube would work OK there if dry were not available.

BTW, lubrication is not a "Saitek Problem" -- virtually all mechanical surfaces that rub benefit from lubrication -- just has to be the right kind for plastic and rubber or it can cause more problems than it solves.

P.S. To apply Moly or Graphite, first clean off all oil, wax, etcetera and dry the surface. The surface needs to be perfectly clean -- then the dry lube bonds with the surface material (metal or plastic) and will not wipe off in use. Do not mix dry lube with oil or grease as it defeats the primary dry lube benefits.

P.P.S You got me thinking. So, I completed my lube job. I was able to apply the Moly dry lube to the center post and the flat sliding surface the post sticks out of. I used a q-tip cotton swab. All lubed up now.

I'm now interested in that lube Allen describes.

I reccommend DO NOT use teflon based gun oil. I needed help with my X-45 and I read in the Saitek forums that someone suggested gun oil that had teflon in it. I happened to have some and tried it. It turned a minor sticking problem into a major hideous problem. It made the stick incrementely worse.

I later tried vaseline and candle wax an it worked ok. But it sounds like Allen has the real ticket there.

Thanks for the tips, i'll try to get those stuffs you mentioned~

Candle wax for five or so years, here.

That can work with the right candles. Along those lines, I'm a fan of Paraffin wax (often used in the kitchen for "preserves") -- your candles may use paraffin wax:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraffin

Its very stiff, waterproof. Makes a good rustproof coating for blued and bare steel because it adheres so well and won't wipe off with handling -- I use it on some of my firearms. Can be used as a lube -- but, usually I use one of the lubes I suggested above. I keep a couple pounds of paraffin in my home-shop (bought at the grocery store -- a lifetime supply).

The strength of paraffin wax is its stiffness and lack of solubility. The hard part is rubbing and rubbing and rubbing to smoothly and evenly distribute it all over the surface being protected. One cannot simply "spread it on" like other waxes because it is so stiff and strong for a wax (you can spread it if the surface and the wax are heated). First, I rub the solid bar of wax directly into the surface -- trying to coat the entire surface evenly -- results in a too thick non uniform coat. Then I use a cloth and rub and rub until I have a uniform shiny finish.

Mine is the same old piece of wax I found worked best years ago, and I can't recall where it came from. It clearly was a melted piece that I picked up off the candle holder. As per your description, yep it could well be paraffin.