homepage Forums Technology Flight Sim Pit Builders Yet another Suncom Restoration :)

Agressorblue,

The problem I see to convert SFS pot with HALL inside is the long travel of wiper.
In any case look at DocFlyer solution for convert Suncom F-15 pots to HALL:
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ub...tml#Post3108472
He says that get 100% of response from HALL.

for SFS I think that use R/C helicopter ball link and a rotary setup, with pot or HALL is more practical:
Here's mine: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2904142/Suncom_SFS.html#Post2904142

I reuse SFS handle PCB's with minor modifications, see drawings.

Sokol1

Ok, so I've been studying Doc flyers pics, and I think I can do that. Your mod to the throttle might also work Sokol1. I am curious though, with your throttle mod, are you saying you limited the physical travel of the throttle Handel sweep, or the travel of the Pen stick/magnet setup? I think I have a solution to the latter:

<this arm would allow me to fine tune travel arc, which, in concert with adjustable push-rod horn hardware, would give me slop free operation.


I'm still looking for general info as to what the "rules" are when it comes to placing Hall sensors. Any help there would be great. Also, does anyone recommended and specific type of Hall sensor? Or any Specs I should look for when shopping for them? I had my eyes on these guys: http://cgi.ebay.com/5pcs-NEW-A3144-A3144...812437641712859

Throttle travel don't change, but with different lengths in throttle lever and in lever that rotate Bic section I match the ~90 110/120 degrees of movement in throttle levers to ~40 degrees in magnets (around Bic section).
In lever - made by PCB part - that rotate Bic section are multiples holes for adjust, like in this Servo horn (linked).
This arrange are a "ad hoc" solution.
In the next (SFS) I think in use RC helicopter ball links, more "elegant".
http://img.alibaba.com/wsphoto/v0/384003507/Metal-Ball-Links-and-Bar-RC-Parts-RC-Accessories.jpg

For HALL sensor you need Radiometric type. This in eBay link dont say this, maybe are just switch...
I advise buy one already tested - Allegro A1302 EUAT:
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=allegro+hall+sensor&_sacat=0&_odkw=honeywell+hall&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l131

Or A1321 - that is more sensible. Or Honeyweel SS495/496 series.

You already read this?

http://www.jpfiles.com/hardware/uni_stick.pdf

And this: http://www.mycockpit.org/forums/content.php/172-Mikes-Tips-%28Rotary%29-Hall-Position-Sensors


General layout - with only one magnet:
http://img641.imageshack.us/i/hall2a.jpg/

Sokol1

Thanks for the links Sokol1, that's exactly what I needed

Time to hit the books...

Alright, so the X-board came a few days ago, and I have to say it's a very impressive bit of hardware.

That said, are there any instructions out there for this thing? Namely I want to make sure I don't short something out by putting wires in the wrong places. It seems that the forums on Leo's site are down, so that option is out at least.

Hall sensors on on their way too. Got 5 for about $10, so I can afford to burn one out if I make a mistake.

aggressorblue, I hope you do not mind me joining your topic.
I also just bought a Suncom F15E and Suncom Talon Stick/Throttle combo. I'm looking into modifying the combo too.

I have 3 possibilities:
1. Buy a gameport>USB adapter. Will probably just buy one to try out the stick. The feel is great, by the way.
2. Go down the separate board way, the same as your approach.
3. I have an old Saitek X45 Hotas. Could I just re-use it's electronics and buttons and integrate it into the Suncom Hotas? The Saitek pots will have to be replaced by the Suncom ones.

Just thinking out loud.

Not sure what to do with the F15E stick. It's the same as the Talon one, right, only with key programming possibilities?

I'm using Win7 64 bit by the way and will use the Suncom Hotas for the VRS F18 Superbug addon for FSX and DCS A-10C.

Thanks.

Regarding 3:
http://i49.tinypic.com/2uh506h.gif

Thanks Jeroen!
I suppose it is the wiring diagram of the X45. No clue (very little) how to read it. (yet)
But I'll find out!

1 - These USB>Gameport adapter use 8 bits controller... and dont work for all programmable buttons of gameport HOTAS (Ie Suncom, CH-F16 or Tm F16/F22).

But, since Suncom use keyboard emulation through DIN/PS2 keyboard connector, you have chance to get work axis through USB adapter and buttons - include HAT's - through keyboard connection and use the four modes to program buttons and HAT's.

Sokol1

Yes.
The colors correspond to the wires going to the PCB inside the stick.
the numbers correspond to pins on the throttle's connector.

SH1/SH2 stick hats 1 and 2
S1-S6 stick switches 1 to 6
TH3/TH4 throttle hats 3 and 4
MU/MD mode up and down
AU/AD aux up and down
T7/T8 throttleswitch 7 and 8
JX/JY joystick X and Y axis
TH throttle axis
RD rudder axis
R1/R2 rotaries 1 and 2

The triangles are diodes to prevent key ghosting.
Rectangles are resistors.
U, D, L, R ect are the directions of the hats.
UL, UR etc are the diagonal directions and a combination of up/down and left/right.
The switches are laid out in a matrix.
The analog axes use pots.
They share two lines in common on the outer pins. (5V and ground)
The middle wiper pin has a seperate line for each pot.

So this project is still going, I've just been stalled on the issue of linking handle travel to the Halls in the throttle.

What I'm now looking at, is replacing the main bolt upon which everything hinges with something hollow. I kept looking at the throttle setup, wondering how to get the linkage to adapt to the incredible range of travel, and a few hacks and slashes later, I'm left right back where I started, except with a few pointless holes drilled in the throttle.

The plan is to use the concept behind Sokol1's Bic assembly, except to make the "bic" the very axis upon which both throttles pivot. With magnets attached to either side of each throttle, and the Halls assembled in the middle, this seems the best way to take the massive and awkward range of mechanical travel out of play.

The advantage to this, is it allows for zero mechanical slop, and is pretty clean when all is said and done.

What I'm wondering, is would I be able to get something like say, a copper tube, that's threaded yet hollow in the center, in the same size as the main bolt. I've attached the pic below to show what I'm getting at:


That silver bolt sticking out of the base would need to be replaced with something hollow.

My concerns are:
If the tube is non-magnetic (like say, copper or brass) would it insulate the Hall from magnets placed outside said tube? The idea here is the shaft does not move, but the throttle handle rotates around it (this is the way it is currently arranged)

Agressorblue,

In his collective project, Loubial put HALL inside a aluminium tube:

http://forums.eagle.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=39514&d=1275076883

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=878433#post878433

http://www.checksix-forums.com/showthread.php?t=159606&page=2

Sokol1

Alright, so I ordered some 5/16th tubing and some collars to hold everything together.

The issue now is I don't think the A1302's are sensitive enough. I did some basic testing today, and they appear to have too be to close to the magnets I've chosen (small rare-earth canopy hatch magnets used on RC planes).

That said, Allegros site says the A1321 is out of production, and will be replaced by a new model, A1324 (same sensitivity/input voltage range), but those won't be shipping till October (Allegro is currently filling out orders for the A1321 until then, but only if you were already in the supply chain).

So, should I look for another Hall that has about 5 mV/G of sensitivity and an output of 5v or less, or do I get stronger magnets?

Is not these magnets too small/weak?

Check specs of Honeywell SS495A - SS496A HALL sensor,they are well used too.

Sokol1