homepage Forums Technology Flight Sim Pit Builders Windscreen frame...

I was able to to a tack-together prototype for the windscreen structure. Not all the parts are there, but enough of it is to give you an idea of the end-product.

Here's the picks. 1024x631 I think. Lots of good detail.







This would result in a forward nose section that's not curved like a "real" fuselage. It would be flat on top with angled sides as defined by the forward section of the windscreen outline.

There are ways to make it nice and curvy, but it would increase the build complexity a bit.

As end-users, what would you guys rather have?

Thanks for the feedback!

g.

Well, I don't mind the flat top, since I would paint it black, and that is where the monitor will most likely be sitting. I am concerned that the front of the windscreen seems to be pretty thick/tall on the bottom, it looks like it will interfere with any monitor that is sitting on the other side of the structure.

I suppose an LCD monitor might fit inside the windscreen, but even if you have a projection system, that bottom part would look better a bit thinner IMHO.

Here's an idea - what if I drop the height of the platform on the other side of the windscreen frame by 4 inches or so? That would let stick a monitor right there and the bottom edge of the monitor would be about even with the top edge of the forward windscreen frame...

g.

IMHO a projector is the only way to go. They're cheap now and if you dont have a lot of space you can get a first surface mirror from an old bigscreen tv. I just added a mirror and increased my screen size 2ft and I think I can still get 2ft more. I have the space though and have a 100" screen. Even at half that the benefit far outwieghs the cost!

The platform drop would still allow for a projector. In fact, you could put the projector screen face right up against the front face of the windscreen. I've got more design work to do on the frame itself anyway...

I got the "standard" forward turtle deck skinned yesterday:



Yes, those are real rivets.



The area that doesn't appear to have any rivets on the top is where I did a few test inserts of countersunk rivets:



I didn't use more because the only flat head rivets I have don't have a long enough reach to go through both the 1/8" MDF skin and the 1/2" stringers. I've got a pound of 3/4" on order that should be here this week. I ordered them at 5/32 instead of 1/8" so I could use my copper clecos without having to worry about them screwing up the hole too much.

Yes, you can use clecos in wood:



One thing I did learn during the skinning - you must pay VERY VERY VERY close attention to making sure you've got the frames aligned and square when you build them! The turtle deck frame was just a tiny bit out of square and it caused an alignment problem with the
skin.

g.

Oh ho! Rivet heads! That is just about too slick for words.

Thanks Mike!

I'm really looking forward to the next skinning section. I've refined the process a bit and I'm eager to try out the new method. I may go half & half on the sides for illustrative purposes - part flush rivet, part round head. Should look interesting.

g.

Looks amazing so far..I recognised the hardware straight away,especially the rivet pitch tool.Keep going mate,looks great.Yep with your base setup always make sure it is level and square before you start skinning as it will save you heaps of grief later on..

Thanks. The more I think about it, the more I like the clipped off front deck. I've got some work to do in Inventor before I finalize it, but I think it'll work out pretty well.

g.