homepage Forums Technology Flight Sim Pit Builders MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Set your own USB controller with a cheap Arduino

F16FLCS has Shift Register inside grip, so you can't need use diode matrix there, just plug 5 wires.

In TQS are a already made matrix (3x4 I think), so just matter to plug in MMJoy2 rows and columns - plus 3 axis.
Not sure if that "eraserhed" thing work as button or as axis - this is a pressure transducer...

My question is: What PCB should I do for using TLE5011? MMJoy2_TLE5010.lay6 or MMJoy2_SHIELD_REG.lay6.

For TLE501x is MMjoy2-TLE5010.tay6.

The other is a optional connector shield for place the PRO Micro.

What is this PCB in upper part of your layout with IC and some resistors?

Sorry, forgot to mention it.

TLE5011.

I have tried today the shift register side of the set and it works perfectly.



What is a good size for the diametrically magnets?

Will something like this be enough?

http://www.first4magnets.com/circular-di...-3kg-pull-p3517

Thank you for clarifying me about the TLE501X, seems that no other component is needed!!! Great!.

Question, how far can a hall sensor can be connect from ADC?

Well I'd have to repair the shift register because when I planned to use MJoy16 I basically cut some tracks on the shift register pcb. Thought it was garbage... and few years later I find that a genius made them work...lol. I need to know C2 value and try to make some soldering on the tracks... or connect it with matrix anyway.
I really hate the gimbals mechanics on this thing... How many degrees of movement does it have?? 20?

Thank you again!

For HALL sensor think that 15 cm is safe, but is matter of experiment, with shielded cables.
Or put a MC3204 near the HALL and send the signal for controller in digital mode.
With TLE50x as they work in digital mode you can use more length wire.

Make other Shift Register board is simple and cheap.

Debolesis draw some PCB's: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=120049&page=5

Yes, F22PRO gimbal is bad - although not bad as Cougar one made in more soft metal - and they springs dammed heavy.

I try disassemble one for try with soft springs, ball bearings... but one bolt refuse to leave this place, even broken one Allen wrench, after use WD-40, heat the place... I shelved then.

tuning F22Pro

Mega-Mozg,

What kind of spring you will use in this gimbal?

Thank you guys for the info. I'll do my best. Until components arrive I try to do a new gimbal. Maybe one 3d printed since a friend has a 3d printer.

Another question, would it be good if I can make 360 degrees with gears + TLE5011 and 10bit adc? Or is it a waste of points?

Nice F22Pro modification Mega-Mozg

Maybe this guy share the files of their CAM 3D printable gimbal - done for Warthog:

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2712811&postcount=13

without any metall spring, used only original ribbon cover - very softy joystick.

I'd like to share my 3D printed joystick/gimbal design. It works with a centering disk and spring which might not be the best solution, but for my setup it works good enough.

Thingiverse gimbal and throttle mechanics

Thank you Robv!! Will be very helpful indeed!!!

Thanks for sharing may come in handy.

Note to self: Get off your lazy a** and fix the Cougar spring mod first

/KC

I would like to use this PCB, but I modify a little bit to use same wire order in every connection.
If I ask someone check this that is good:
http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2016/05/full-20746-121923-teszt.jpg
Don't need any other to work the digital axes more than 10 bit?

What is the different between the reg and dig connection?
The led connection how many leds handled , how can I connect to use ,the normal leds are only 2 wire there is 3 pin .
Can I control more than one led individual?
I can connect the normal pots the digital axes place only GRD, VCC and for example D0?


I design my gimbal too, but even more work on it. I would like to use adjustable central spring bottom:
http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2016/05/full-20746-121924-joy.jpg

there is make a hole on The red circle and one axis for handle axis. I plan to compatible with cougar handle so the top of the axis have an M36x2 thread

I'm not sure what you are trying to say, but you if you connect a pot to a digital pin, it isn't going to work. You need one of thr analog pins for that.

I started with press buttons soldering (matrix). And I'll go for a detachable stick with this connector that I found at work http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/bioAAOSwyQtVwRzL/s-l1600.jpg , but I'm still thinking if the plastic of the grip would resist...

This PCB looks for early MMJoy version and has stranges connections, better use a more recent layout.

For digital axis, if use TLE501x GMR sensor nothing more is needed - besides the components in tehir PCB - for potentiometers or HALL sensor is need a external ADC chip, eg. MPC3208.



Thrustmaster X models use similar gimbal design, with compression spring under the gimbal, adjustable turning a nut.



Using ConTrollR shield PCB as example, notice that CS (or SC) pin (dark blue) can be the axis input both for potentiometer or TLE501x.


screen shot pc

BTW - This PCB is for Teensy++ 2.0 but for PRO Micro is the same principle.

Your other questions is related with the linked PCB picture - that I dont understand.

http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2016/05/full-20746-122214-1teszt1.jpg

So I try to explain understandable what I want.

This board If it good for the base PCB. I use one pro micro only.
from FLCs comes shift register and X, Y axis (with TLE5010) wire. If I count well there are 8 wires if share the same function wire across the DB15 connector

there is Z axis (with TLE5010) and ANT and range axis and mini joy with normal pots and the buttons In the throttle.

The questions:
The ANT and Range and mini joy pots how connect this PCB?
The handle grip uses one shift register but the throttle buttons how connect, because there isn't shift register.

there are 3 led pin how connect the led there and how many leds can I use individual in same time?

Can someone convert the .lay6 files to Gerber files?

Where are you guys getting your boards etched? ITEAD? Batchpcb? SeeedStudio?

Mega Mozg and Sokol - can you post an exploded view of the parts you're throwing together for throttle friction and the TLE5011 magnet attachments in your monster throttles? I'm curious how you're implementing friction.

Tnx! 73

SM

Although I have used SprintLayout several times for DIY PCB's they are made in Toner method, so need only PDF file, no idea about Gerber files generation...

For order PCB people are using OSPark https://oshpark.com/users/sign_in has free shipping for minimum order, think 10$.

I don't make throttles, only rewire some old Suncom SFS, Tm TQS, WCS, CH PRO Throttles, this mechanics that you see in pictures across this topic is metal parts done with laser cut by GVL224 or Divk - see announces in Buy/Sell/Trade.

But friction in then is simple, example Divik mechanics:


gif hosting

Be adjust the bolts pointed be red arrows you make the felt pad press more or less the axis lever.

The additional bolt in right upper side is just for lever stop, in the left side the bolt that act as sensor support stop the lever.