homepage Forums Technology Flight Sim Pit Builders MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Set your own USB controller with a cheap Arduino

Hi...anyone around on this thread still? I have some questions about SolderMonkey's Thrustmaster mod.

1) This FCS has a Mac ADB connector. I cannot really see it in the pics, but did he say he spiced in a USB connector on the PC side (and a microUSB on the Pro Micro side which is in the photos).
2) SolderMonkey uses a diode on his Pro Micro board. I'm not a big electronics guy so where's the other end of this diode connect? And which direction is it supposed to go?
3) Aside from flashing the Pro Micro, what else does one need to do once it's wired up?

Thanks in advance.

Ender6

If the FCS are previously Mac or PC dont matter because none of this original circuits/connectors are used.

In that conversions you are assembly a "new USB" stick with old FCS parts and potentiomters (or not if opt for use HALL sensor).

In that case are used a Diode in ground pin on PRO Micro board.

This ground pin are wired to all HAT and buttons:

http://simhq.com/forum/files/usergals/2014/11/full-38364-90920-img_2272.jpg


Diode are used to avoid "ghost"* buttons - a "collateral effect" in matrix wiring.
Since FCS has few buttons (4) only one diode are sufficient.

If the joystick have many buttons maybe will be necessary use one diode in each button or HAT connection.

* Matrix ghosting effect appear if more than 3 buttons are pressed simultaneous:
http://www.dribin.org/dave/keyboard/one_html/

Ender, Believe it or not, the pro micro and MMJoy will let you work with the diode either way. You just need to reverse your switch rows and columns if they don't work. I soldered the diode with the stripe towards the board. Ended up with rows and columns switched versus what it was in my mind. Lesson learned. The diode just keeps current from feeding back through the lines and hopefully prevents one switch from firing multiple switches.

Connectors - use the existing cable if you can. This gives you a nice looking, stress relieved cable at the joystick. Who cares if there is a weird looking splice way down the cable. It's under the table right? By re-using the existing cable, you get a pretty and tough cable at the end you're going to be messing with it.


Cut off the original joystick port connector as far away from the joystick as you can get it. This will give you a very long cord. From there, buy a 3 foot standard micro USB cable. Cut the USB cord about a foot from the micro USB connector. Inside the microUSB cable, you'll find four colored wires and sometimes a bare ground wire. Red is 5 volt, black is ground and then white/ green are your USB data lines. You can wire black and ground together if you want. Find conductors in the original cable and match them up - Color1 to black, color2 to red and so on. Whatever colors you choose, just don't cross them. You want to make a straight up splice into the USB cable.


For splices that hold up and are fairly fast, take 2 or 3 zip ties, hold the wires together and zip tie off about 2 inches. From there, solder and heat shrink your individual wire splices. Cover the whole thing with heat shrink again, over the zip ties. I've never had a splice fail using this method.

Boys, does anybody have disassembled "Logitech G940 stick" fotos?

Some pictures of stick here - surprisingly, ball bearings.

http://forums.logitech.com/t5/facebookfo...b/board/page/34

Inside grip:

http://forums.eagle.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=89929&stc=1&d=1382536949
http://forum.il2sturmovik.com/uploads/monthly_01_2014/post-7156-0-90454800-1390372350.png
http://forum.il2sturmovik.com/uploads/monthly_01_2014/post-7156-0-29492200-1390372353.png

Throttle - the most problematic part (the infamous short wires):

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2973351/all/My_G940_Throttle_Has_Turned_In
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3323724/all/G940_MOD!_(Warning_large_pictu

Sokol1, THANKS!!!

Hi megamozg,

I have just updated my mmjoy from version v20150121 to the latest vesion v20150405.

However, with v20150405, my buttons are not detected correctly.

With v20150121, I get all of my 37 buttons detected correctly,
with v20150405, I get only 18 buttons.

I have tried to reverse the rows and columns,
but I get the same result.

These are the screenshots:


v20150121 - no error, everything works perfectly.





v20150405 - only 18 out of 37 buttons detected.
And if you look closely at button matrix (state), no 32 is always on.


What is different with the new version?
Why is it not compatible with the old version?
Please advise.

One more thing, the joystester page is also messed up.

Hi mega_mozg,

thanks for the reply.

the button 13 should be 14.
yes, I know the error, and I have already fixed it.

however, the problem remains,
I still get 18 buttons detected.
why is that?
do I need to reverse column and row?

now I have used v20150121 again,
with this version, there is no error and I get 37 buttons detected again.

tirta

my throttle control have 31 buttons(this not 37 but much more 18), no errors...

hello
I have a question , why did you use the encoder ?

I looked up and down the post but not so that you can use.

And its posible add a vumetro to a hall sensor (throttle) for indicate with leds the throttle?

thanks

Hi mega_mozg,

out of curiosity, I try flashing v20150405 again.
however, even after reset and clear,

if I reverse column and rows,
the button no 32 is always on.



if not,
the button no 60 is always on.



with v20150121,
there is none.

can you please let me know what is different between these versions?
please help.

About MaRS sensors (TLE5010 or TLE5011), does the board/software supports all the 8 axis with this type of sensor, or it is limited?
It also supports 6 rotary encoders? ( i was told that were only 4...)

Thank you very much for your work Mr MEGA_Mozg.

Hi mega_mozg

is there any way to use the magnetic analog stick in sony PS3 controler

Bolelas, no limits. But this is not MARS! "MARS" is VKB Njoy32 native sensor (also used at Defender Cobra M5).
zeg33, need a datasheet, I dont know how to use signal from "poles".

I had no experience with SMD parts. Get some TLE5010, but is difficult find here the SMD components listed in TLE5010 PCB layout.

I notice that in assembled TLE5010 board is used 27(OHM) resistor instead 50(OHM), and one ceramic capacitor was omitted.
This difference is intentional, for different angle reading?
In this case what the value for the ceramic capacitor used?


20mb image hosting

Other than the size of board has inconvenient in use conventional components (resistor, capacitor) instead SMD? They are more easy to find here.


free uploader

Yep, i was good if we could just place the sensor and drive those components connections to other place bigger, with bigger components.

Sokol1.
"SMD1206" are biggest from SMD - not hard to solder, and don't need drilling holes...
TLE5010 pcb components:

R1-R4 - 10-100 OHM, optional. for protecive on long wires.
R5-R6 - 1-10 kOHM, required. need to hold up "data" and "select" digital lines.
C1 - 0.1uF (ceramic 104), required. used on all sorts of applications to decouple ICs from power supplies.
C2 - 10uF (tantal A), optional. these capacitor are great transient/surge suppressor.

also, TLE5010 and TLE5011 fully compatible, but better to use newest TLE5011.

boys, I have some commercial offer:
if you cannot assemble and solder PCB-TLE5010 I can help you.
1 pcs - 10$ + registered mail shipping (~5$).

Hi mega_mozg,

If I use TLE5010 for X and Y axis,
and I have 5 other axis using HALL,
and I use arduino leonardo,
how many pins left for rows and colums for button?

how many buttons can I have?

Let's calculate, as-is without any optimization:
1) "Leonardo" have 20 pins.
2) "TLE5010-GEN" (pin B6) common for all TLE5010/TLE5011, balance (20-1)=19 pins.
3) "SPI-MISO" (pin B3) common for all SPI sensors, balance (19-1)=18 pins.
4) "SPI-SCK" (pin B1) common for all SPI sensors, balance (18-1)=17 pins.
5) "SPI-CS" (any pin) unique for each SPI sensor, balance (17-2)=15 pins.
6) "VCC" + "GND" - don't calculate
7) 5 pcs. halls (any pins with "AI" ADC), balance (15-5)=10 pins.
8) with 10 pins, you can build 5*5=25 buttons matrix.

with simple optimization added one "mcp3208" for halls:
1) "Leonardo" have 20 pins.
2) "TLE5010-GEN" (pin B6) common for all TLE5010/TLE5011, balance (20-1)=19 pins.
3) "SPI-MISO" (pin B3) common for all SPI sensors, balance (19-1)=18 pins.
4) "SPI-MOSI" (pin B2) common for all SPI sensors, balance (18-1)=17 pins.
5) "SPI-SCK" (pin B1) common for all SPI sensors, balance (17-1)=16 pins.
6) "SPI-CS" (any pin) unique for each SPI sensor, balance (16-3)=13 pins.
7) "VCC" + "GND" - don't calculate
8) with 13 pins, you can build 6*7=42 buttons matrix.