homepage Forums Technology Flight Sim Controllers Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog Discussion Thread

Chivas have you seen this? Patent diagrams of WH.

http://www.google.com/patents/download/1...iew_r&cad=0

In particular look at paragraphs 0111-0115 describing the centering mechanism and secondary springs. Paragraph 0115 is particularly insightful to the centering issue and the selection of springs (main and secondary).

Perhaps I am reading this wrong but it seems possible that a modification of the secondary spring may provide the user with a means of customizing the "feel" through center? I'm wondering if adding a washer/spacer to each of the secondary springs would increase their tension/effect, allowing weaker centering, but smoother movement through center?

Cheers

See here for great internal pics of the stick from Frazer:

http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http:...%26tbs%3Disch:1

In updated to RC3 but can't find the option to deactivate that deadzone.

Could you explain were i can find that option?

The ball itself doesn't have a flat spot.

Down below the sphere of the ball joint is a lip/rim that extends underneath the black/white ring shown in the picture.

When you deflect the stick from center, that white/black ring is pushed up by the rim of the ball. When you're not deflecting the stick, the lip and the white/black ring are making contact 360 around....Thus my tilting soda can analogy.

Thanks for the link to the Warthog pics. That does look a tad more difficult to mod. If I still had my Warthog I would open it up and take a closer look, but it had other problems aswell.

Wow - Teej - million thanks for the *.pdf. Never would have seen it otherwise.

For me, I love the Warthog throttle enough to justify the purchase. With my U2Nxt Cougar as my Joystick - and with TARGET controlling the "lot" - I'm as happy as can be.

All software maturity issues aside, the fact that BOTH controllers are being recognized is a great leap forward.

Yesterday, I picked up a new "project box" - into which I"m going to install my Cougar throttle controls. I've selected a box that will fit just underneath my monitor. Now I'll have those sliders, switches and hat organized in a manner that will be usefull for me and controlled by TARGET.

The new TARGET RC3 is a great improvement. A few notes:

- Absolutely love the full screen capability. No more wasted time scrolling back and forth to see the beginning of statements.
- The new event tester filters out axis movement - displaying just the macro strings which is much more coherent and usable. That's what I really need to see in the tester - exactly what combinations of press-release execute.
- When running a configuration from the gui editor - the editor goes away, leaving only the Running Script Window - which makes changes "in game" easier - without the larger background window covering up the desktop.
- Graphic and tabular print just made my life much easier.

S!

Gunny

In the command center (1st screen you get after opening T.A.R.G.E.T.), where you are presented with the icons of conected controlers, you will notice a button on the stick icon frame (just below "get firmware"), labeled "control center deadzone". When you click it, a window with a checkbox pops up and you can untick it to cancel the hardware deadzone.

But I'm sure by now you have found out yourself, it's quite prominent actually.

Thanks alot. No i didn't find it before your post. I expected it to be somewhere around the "axes mapping" tab, but there i could only find the software deadzone settings.

I use the script editor only and was searching for some command you would've to put into the script file. But when you deactivate it in the GUI and then close it and start the script editor.

I think deactivating the hardware deadzone is a pretty big improvement. Never understood why it had a fixed deadzone anyway.

Cross post OK? If not, please delete. It's also in A-10C.

4 hours including shopping and paint drying.

2�x 4� particle board base�4" ABS (cheap black plastic) end cap bolted down, insert 4" x 14� pipe and screw in place, sand pipe lightly and paint. Attach joystick to unpainted removable 4" ABS plug (you need four new M4 X 16 or longer screws), insert...and now your joystick is between your legs where it belongs. ;-)

One gripe: the removable plug I found (YMMV) has a recessed lip so there's a 1/16" gap between the ABS plug and the base of the joystick. If I can find thick 4" o-ring it will solve that problem.

Only tricky part is properly drilling, counter-sinking, and aligning the holes in the particleboard base and the ABS removable plug.

Next project is a retractable mount for the throttles, so they're down by my thigh where they belong, but can be slid back out of the way under the desk when I'm not flying. Some kind of modification to a prebuilt top mount drawer, I'm guessing.

Anyone have any of the green LED lights on the WH throttle stop working? On mine the "NRM" that is just to the left of the black Auto pilot disengage button on the base of the throttle no longer lights up... All the others are working.

I had my first touchy feely experience with the Warthog today.
Its impressive and pretty much plug and play for the DCS sim.

I also immediately picked up the 'detent' in the center of the stick. I have a Cougar which was also awful out the box, but I installed the U2NXT mod with hal sensors from IJ and CubPilot.
It transformed the cougar to absolute awesomeness.

I have a shopping cart with new rudder pedals, mfd's and the Thrustmaster Warthog just waiting for me to checkout. I need to do some more reading here, and ashamedly I have not read this entire thread but will, however are there any mods in the making to remove the center detent point?

I will still buy it for sure, but if there is a post with mods I would appreciate a link.
Gonna email IJ if he is still around, the U2NXT's for the Cougar are superb so maybe he will look at the Warthog.

Maybe I'm jumping the gun and am just used to the NXT mod which I like so much. Time will tell.


Thx
V

I have to say that I have about three hours stick time with the warthog and after flying a G940 for a couple of months I am blown away. To me it feels so smooth and Im really enjoying it.


Now if the throttle doesnt turn into a brick we will be good.

IJ just moved and has installed his machines in the new 'shed' and is doing the first run of NXTs. He has a thread over on FrugalsRefugees.

You can adjust the center detent feeling by tweaking the 4 littles axes springs But always remember:

If they are to long or too strong, it will create a spring deadspot and the center position will be totally effortless and loose.

If they are not strong enough, they may have almost no effect.

Amways use the same 4 springs don't mix them.

Thx, yes I mailed him and he said he has had a number of requests to look at the warthog, nothing yet though.

HOTAS Warthog under Joystick Stability Test:

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/549/joytes01custom.jpg

Precision Test:

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/7011/joytes03custom.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5669/joytes04custom.jpg
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/286/joytes05custom.jpg

Sokol1

Very neat, Sokol1.

Please bear with me. I have read what postings I can find on pairing rudder pedals with the HOTAS Warthog.They only served to confuse me. (I have a Cougar that some posts imply I have to use as a surrogate -- which boggles my mind) I do not feel I have the answers to my questions -- although I may in fact have them and just to inexperienced or stupid to know it.

Simply put: How do I pair the Saitek Pro Flight Combat pedals with HOTAS Warthog to play Cliffs of Dover? Please, point me to the definitive answer and I will research it or just tell me. It is a lot of money to sink into a system that I am not sure will work together.
This,taken from this site, in part is why I am confused:
"Use the HOTAS Warthog with USB rudder pedals from another manufacturer
For any titles that support multiple controllers, using the HOTAS Warthog with USB rudder pedals from Saitek, CH Products, or even the Logitech G940 would not be a problem. The disadvantage is that these pedals from other manufacturers would not be programmable through Thrustmaster software."(WHAT DOES THIS MEAN NOT PROGRAMMABLE) and "So, in effect Thrustmaster has done everything they can to support users of any existing rudder pedal set except put a gameport connector onto the HOTAS Warthog, Cougar-style (and with it being 2010, who can blame them?)"
DOES THIS MEAN I USE ANOTHER USB PORT on the PC AND ID IT AS A SEPARATE DEVICE?.

I'm not sure what you're asking there. I have a HOTAS Warthog and I have Saitek rudder pedals. They just work together. No need to setup anything. Just plug in your rudders, make sure they're working. Plug in your Warthog, make sure it's working. One does not conflict with the other.

You will need one USB port for the joystick, one port for the throttle, and one port for the rudders. Personally, I have a powered USB hub with 7 ports. I have a joystick, throttle, rudder, left mfd, right mfd, and TrackIR plugged into it. But this USB hub then only connects to one USB port on my PC.

As to programming the rudders, there is no need, at least in my case when flying with Falcon 4 Allied force and lately with DCS A10. I just adjust the deadzone and curve in-game. Same for any Warthog concerns.

Hope that helps.

Alderhost, I think the confusion might come from the text differentiating between how the Cougar and the Warthog components work in relation to rudder pedals.

On the Cougar, the rudder pedals, joystick and throttle would connect to each other (through the throttle, if I remember right), and then had one connection to the PC. This meant that as far as the PC was concerned, all of those devices were one device, and any sim that supported one device would be able to use them all.

The Warthog doesn't work that way. The throttle and joystick each have their own USB cables and connect to the PC on their own as separate devices. They can be programmed in different ways through the TARGET software, but because they don't have a connection for a set of rudder pedals, the pedals will always be a separate device to the PC. For any sims that support multiple devices, that's not a problem, as you just choose the Warthog joystick for what you want it to control, then the Warthog throttle for whatever you want it to do, and then the Saitek pedals separately, and it should all work.

For older games that don't support multiple devices, there is (currently, at least) no way to get them to use the Warthog devices and rudder pedals.

As far as Cliffs of Dover is concerned, I'm not sure anyone knows for sure how to set it up specifically, but because IL2 supported multiple controllers and works fine with the Warthog stick and throttle and separate rudder pedals, I am confident that Cliffs of Dover, being even newer and from the same team, will be able to do the same.

Thank you this is the clarity I was seeking and I will be the proud owner of this setup as soon as Amazon can get it to me.