homepage Forums Technology Flight Sim Pit Builders MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Set your own USB controller with a cheap Arduino

In TQS the ANT is just a conventional pot, require 3 wires +5V, Gnd, signal.

The Range pot is double stacked pot - 2 pots in one axis - I think for overcome gameport limitations, for have a center position - dont see why use then in USB circuit, think that will need some experimentation. Maybe the two are wired in serie in one axis, dont remember...

The mini joy in TQS - a kind of IBM laptop like mouse - is a different device, is a transducer that work (bad) under pressure.

Don't know if this device are wired in TQS in analog of digital inputs or how wire in MMJoy2.
Maybe is better replace then with a analog mini-stick (PS2 like, as in Cougar) or with conventional HAT (what I did in one TQS).

This thing work bad, erratic in F16/F22 HOTAS and are abandoned in Cougar.

The others connections are one HAT (COMM) and some press or toggle switches, just require buttons inputs, and as they are few can be wired with diode matrix (row x columns), e.g. 2x5.



I know that MMjoy2 can handle LED's but with games exported values, e.g. War thunder, for example to replicate in game landing gear light status, not for light when some switch are turned ON. F16 or TQS have LED?

I can't help with this "3 led pin"...

Look at this led/switchs usage (page anterior).

http://s19.postimg.org/yhqb106rn/mmjoy2_Pro_Micro_Gear_Switch_Bi_LED_schem.png

BTW - Communication between F16 and TQS.

If place the MMJOy2 inside TQS will be required for F16
+5V
Gnd
X input
Y input
4 other TLE501x inputs - can be shared between 2 axis.
3 inputs for Shift Register, besides the shared +5V, Gnd
Total of 11 wires.

If MMJoy2 is placed on F16:
+5v
Gnd
Throttle input
Range input
Ant input
X in mini-stick if used
Y in mini-stick if used
10 buttons - 2 x 5 matrix = 7 wires
Total 14 wires

or if not used mini-stick but HAT - 3x5 matrix = 8 wires
Total 13 wires

few days, and I show you my mod's:
1) Thrustmaster Elite Rudder - add bearings, and two brake axis.
2) Thrustmaster TQS - add three mini DVIK's axis, rebuild buttons grip.
3) Thrustmaster FLCS - metall gimbal, add buttons at base.

I'll be waiting for those pics mega_mozg_13!!

Would you post your metall gimbal blueprints?

Forsaken_joystick
here step by step https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2zIeYwbAIHOTTdodXZab3FBdG8

thank you mega_mozg_13 !

I've already got an account open with a PCB shop that needs Gerber files. I've tried sending them the .LAY6 files and they say they can't read them. Any takers on a file conversion?

Sokol - thanks - that's pretty much what I was looking for on the friction settings.

WOOOOOOOW very good pics and design Mr Mega!!!!!

Hi, yesterday I was making the matrix for my FLCS and TQS, and I'm afraid your wrong about the Range pot. the one near the shaft is actually a switch. The one at the bottom is the pot. actually. See the switch has 2 terminals and the other 3.

I'm still waiting for my halls and TLE5011 to arrive. I'm thinking of using the originals pots until they arrive. Do you have any recommendation? Should I add a resistor in series?

Thank you!

That's right, my bad, is possible see the pins in this picture in Cougar spare parts list:



This make things more easy.



No problem in use pot, and a principle no resistor needed, just wire like any pot, the central pin is axis input, outside ones is for +5V and Gnd, invert then invert the pot response (CW, CCW).

I'd like to do something like this... (Lazy mod on) https://www.fichier-pdf.fr/2011/05/10/uni-stick/ or http://www.jpfiles.com/hardware/uni_stick.pdf (same file). It's a pdf. And his idea really feels rock solid!!!

Lol Sokol__1 you're every where.!!! Nice!!!

does everyone want make a uniform PCB for F-16 FLCS+TQS uses with one pro micro.
F16FLCS
1 Shift regiszter
2 TLE5010/11 pot for x-y

One auxilary PCB to collect this wires in FLCS base and to send via DB15 connector.
aux PCB for FLCS base

TQS

one main PCB for connect pro micro and every other wires like a Njoy_ adapter.lay6 panel.

2 TLE5010/11 for z and ruddel
4 normal pots for PS3 ministick(not erase head) and ANT, RNG
and buttons


DO We make together to plane such a modify kitt for FLCS+TQS users?
So it is more ease to help each other if someone have a problem in setup or programing

Hi

I'm redesigning my joystick , the first step has been to make the lowest gyroscope and the second to add a LED bar to the throttle stick. a little video.

https://youtu.be/JILm48wQbb0

bye

Love it!

Hello to all,
first of all, like many others, I'd like to praise Mega_Mozg's remarkable work and support giving with Mr. Sokol1 to others on this forum. I just started to tinker my Thrusmaster T.Flight HotasX, thoroughly red this thread and will probably ask some questions later. I would also like to say hi to all SC backers here :-).

To add my little bit to this great mixture of informations, I have a tip for noobs like me.

I recently bought original Arduino Micro, but had serious problems to get to the bootloader to flash it with MMJoy2. All over the Internet, everybody says "press reset". Even Mega_Mozg, who suggest to be patient and try several times, what I did. Even on official Arduino pages is "press reset". I tried several times, even tried to press it with Micro disconnected and hold pressed while connecting. Hold pressed while connected and still was not able to get that other COM port and bootloader. Then I remind myself, that someone, I think Sokol, sugested for other board to short-circuit RST and GND pins twice. And voila ... after fast double-pressing reset button I got what I wanted - bootloader with correct COM.

Hopefully this will help at least someone.

Thank you very much for inspiration and images, so I can see what to expect before I will disassemble the throttle :-). Speaking about this, my first plan was just to get rid of Joystick and revire it's buttons,hat and axles into the throttle with original electronics and some new parts. Just wanted to make it better standalone throttle. First I attached wires from joy pots to analog thumbstick with push button and it works well, but did not tested it thoroughly. My right hand joystick is Cobra M5 and playing Star Citizen I tried whole HotasX as a left hand device (switching between throttle and stick), but then decided to use just small stick on throttle for strafing. I planned to leave bottom part of joy to keep there joy's PCBs and maybe add PCB from an old gamepad with it's analogs and buttons and make it a button box :-))) ...

Then I found out, that there are other options, like Leo Bodnar's boards ready for easy connections and direct use. I was a little bit confused by their different types and asked their suport to explain. Within few days they just advised me to read their products data sheets (which I did before, but did not understand too much). Then I ended up here, opting for Arduino, which is available here quite fast (I had it within 90minutes after order). Thanks god I was so lucky that I red at least something and did not buy Arduino UNO rev. 3 in some "Starter kit" :-)

Future plans:
1) Make hotasX throttle as good as possible and as fast as possible to be able to play again.
2) Build some throttle from a scratch including handle and so on. Here I am researching about materials, appropriate boxes, technologies as CNC, laser cut atc. Picking also some knowledge about molding, modelling, shaping to get things where I wish them to have.

So that was kinda little introduction of a new member :-)
W77

hello to all
I'm going to restore my Leonardo bootloader arduino .
Who can help me?
I tried following ways but I encounter the following error
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/installing-an-arduino-bootloader

error
avrdude: Expected signature for ATmega32U4 is 1E 95 87
Double check chip, or use -F to override this check.
Wrong microcontroller found. Did you select the right board from the Tools > Board menu

It looks like you don't have an Arduino Leonardo. That signature is for a 328p based board. Did you select the correct COM port? Do you have other connected USB devices maybe?

Hi this is VERY basic, I am familiar with USB controllers and such, and how and where to connect. But in any tutorial I have searched there is no one that explain the basics of a Hall sensor. So here is a drawing of what I think I understand





If the sylinder in this picture Rotate, will it be registered as a hotas movement by the USB card? Do you need two magnet�s