homepage Forums Technology Flight Sim Pit Builders MMJoy/MMjoy2 - Set your own USB controller with a cheap Arduino

thanks Sokol1 for the explanation.

I notice there is also "filter " for axis.
what does it do?

tirta, filter is smoothing (cut signal noise).

thanks mega_mozg,

I am using hall effect sensor, do I need to use it?

Tirta,

Test your "joystick" with JoyTester2, VKB joystester (or Tm Joy Analyzer), if without move the axis the response line became "serrated" apply the filter, if not is no need.

The two first programs here, in Mercury13 page (Analyzer from Thrustmaster page):

http://mercury13.tut.su/?q=soft_other
Or
http://ftp.vkb-sim.pro/Programms/

Sokol1

my collection of tools for joysticks "all in one" [MMJOY downloads] -> [tools_joy.rar]

thanks Sokol1 for the reply.

thanks mega_mozg for the files.

I am going to do some testing now.

Hi mega_mozg,
Hi Sokol1,

I have another problem when connecting the cables for button matrix from the throttle unit to the joystick unit.
My old version, I connect the cables directly from the throttle button to mmjoy.
There is no problem, everything work fine this way.

Now, since I want to make the joystick interchangeable.
I use db15 connector in between throttle and joystick unit (mmjoy is inside joystick unit),
so that I can use another joystick with the same throttle.

However with these connectors (male and female). it seems that connections are never good,
Testing with joysetup.exe, when I press the one button, always 2 or 3 numbers are checked.
Bad connector? may be,
but I have changed both male and female parts 2 times with new parts,
the result is still the same.
I have double check all cables connection, with multimeter there seems nothing wrong.

However, if I do not use the connector at all,
all the buttons are good, always one number for one button pressed.
Why is that?
Do you know what is the culprit?

And what is button debounce?
what does it do?

Hi mega_mozg_13,

I saw your conversion of the Saitek X36/X35. Do you think it's also possible to do a less invasive conversion leaving the wiring of the stick and throttle unchanged and only add an Arduino with MMJoy in the base of the joystick?

Also thanks for the detailed flashing instructions in your posting

Btw, have you seen the new dirt cheap "Nano 3.0 CH340" boards on AliExpress? You can get them for around $3.20 with shipping, or $2.60 if you buy ten.

You are using diodes on buttons?

When using many inputs from matrix they are need to avoid "ghost" buttons press.

1N4148 diode is fine.

Sokol1

yes I use 1N4148 diode.

I am thinking of buying another pair of db15 connector [male and female], might be a better quality ones.
It seems that all 2 pairs that I have are bad.

it seems unlikely,
but that is the most logical explanation so far.

it was a more then year ago... I don't remember.


"Nano 3.0 CH340" not supported (MCU "ATmega328P" without USB interface).

Hi mega_mozg,
Hi sokol1,

Finally I manage to get rid of the "ghost button presses" by adding the pull up resistor 10k to each column.
Thanks for letting me know.

Now with firmware v20141119,
I find out that the axis value on the "Joystick axes" page is different than "Joy-tester" page.
So which one is the correct one?



min center max
X 122 2059 3975 these values from Joy-tester > raw
X 676 1984 3308 these values from Joystick axes > value

Y 161 2168 3866 these values from Joy-tester > raw
Y 1724 2496 3180 these values from Joystick axes > value





I use hall sensor for both x and y.
Are these values good enough?
or do I need to better align the magnet - hall sensor?

Also I have enabled the auto calibration w/center for both axis,
but when I look at control panel > game controller,
I find the axis is not centered.



Then I calibrate it from setting > calibrate,
but it seem the result is not optimal,
the axis is still not centered.




Please let me know what is wrong and how to fix it.

The reading values - above 3000 are very good, don't worry with this.

Try this: open the device (joystick ?) plug into computer USB port and careful move the magnets until the axis are centered (more approximately possible).

Instead monitor on Windows applet use one these joy test software, like this one in your above pictures, more detailed.
The center is in 2048. The blue axis -static on second picture - is clearly off center.

The "Achilles hell" of DIY HALL sensor assembly is this alignment, a 0.1 mm off make difference in centering.

Sokol1

tirta, your hall+magnet system works ery well.
if want more, and perfect:
1) decrease distance between hall and magnet as less as possible. axis raw must be: min 0-100 point, and max 4000-4096.
2) check your mechanic


it is no good!!!

see my bearings mechanic:

thanks Sokol1 & mega_mozg for sharing your knowledge.
I learn a lot from reading your posts.

mega_mozg,
your joystick motion looks very smooth.
can I know what kind of joystick do you use?

Ok, I'm gonna take another shot at this even though my last mjoy attempt was an utter failure.

Will this board work with MMJoy?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Leonardo-Pro-Micr...=item4853468c6a

Holy #%&*$#. So with any pro micro you DON"T need a progammer (I have an avrisp - no idea how to use it)? All I have to do is follow the above steps to get it to work? Also, in order for this to work, do steps 4-6 have to be done within 8 seconds or can you start Joysetup and get everything ready, then plug in the promicro and click "upload"?

hi mega_mozg,

wow, I am speechless.
you make your own gimbal mechanism.
that is very impressive.

how long does it takes to make it?

yes!!!