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Day I see pink, Hello Kitty A-10 skins I'm turning team killer

Mol - ouch! Truth hurts

Mol and Wheel, and anyone else who liked the look of the switch panel, I posted a set of instructions (+ parts list) here in the pit builder's forum:
http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3734641/Re_You_ve_taken_your_first_ste#Post3734641

You'll be surprised how easy it is!

Total cost (excluding buying new tools for mine) was about 75 buxx, including the sticker sheet printer paper ($10). The switches cost more than the PCB.

Thanks X, looks like fun.

Just what happens when you set Shoot Down Crew to Up?

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New mission 'The Highway-M4' is up on Hollo Pointe with lots of new features, including giving the F-15Cs something to do (gosh I hope they live up to their rep).

He goes down...

The Hawg's secret afterburners deploy, and it goes into a steep climb for an automatic over-the-shoulder lob release pattern. At target height, the GBU-12 is released and laser-guided onto the unwitting target. The end is mercifully quick^^

I am an electrical engineer and I have no fear of what you think your silly switches can do.


bESIDES i THINK YOU USED ACID-CORE SOLDER. OOPS WHO SWItched my Caps Lock key around?

It's rosin-core... hopefully not too acidic^^ I tried looking into different types before I started but gave up in the end, it just goes right over my head. It would be simpler if American/European flux-core solder existed in Japan, but they seem intent on providing flux in a separate bottle only.

Just one of the many speedbumps I went over while making this panel^^

(So... rosin is a type of flux... but not flux flux... and there are different grades of rosin... and... *brain shuts down*)

Yes - and many solders were spec'd by their lead/silver ratio - maybe the grade you mention. Not so sure what solder is today with all the ROHS stuff. Silver and nickel?

A rosin core solder is for electronics; it is not a strong connection. The rosin-core has flux in it to chemically clean the contacts. Some flux ahead of the soldering does help.

Acid core solder is used to join metal together for a more-permanent bond, and its acid core takes a bigger bite out of the surfaces to be joined; it is not recommended for electronic connections.

In all cases the left over film should be removed - used to be with some really highly volatile solvent, to get the parts cleaned so they don't get eaten away by the left over flux These days, most of the left over flux can be cleaned by a rinse cycle in the dishwasher, as long as the parts don't have a water intrusion issue, but I never thought the clean up was a big deal.

WC

^Thanks for the advice!

And also, the new Highway really has teeth! I was in two minds about it at first since I think we all love the gun runs on Novo, but I had a heck of a lot of fun in there tonight.

Don't want to spoil anything, but, everyone... if you think it's time for gun runs... LOOK HARDER! The "pool" showed I had 49 kills during my single flight (with re-arms naturally), but when I thought it was safe to go in low... I got a surprise. Multiple surprises^^

Less emphasis on solder compounds and more on flying please. Switches are way cool X-ray... However I am afraid if I made some I would flip the switches all the time and have so much fun I would forget to flight my hawg.


I may just have to build some anyway.

I've had to miss a couple of nights due to work....I'm having Black Shark withdrawls! I really enjoy the adverse weather scenarios, we had snow a week or so ago. I'd love to see that in the queue again sometime.

It is funny, after flying the Black Shark almost exclusively, when I get into the A-10 I'm overwhelmed for a minute with buttons and the dual MFD...but then I settle in and find I really miss the ABRIS map. That ABRIS is pretty awesome.

I have a question to those of you that use the x52 Pro joystick.

1) Is it a twist stick for rudders?
2) Is it force Feedback?

That is all, resume your normal duties.

1. Yes (I use pedals though)
2. Nope, not FFB

Happy to answer any others you might have!

Reference this thread:

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/3735470/Re_Wanted_Beta_tester_for_new_#Post3735470


Anyone interested in flying through this- probably this evening? Maybe a few guys are willing to try it out... Skate- there's F15s in it for you!

He may come in here looking but if a few of you guys want to partake I can put it up on the firehouse- if desired we could lock the doors for the event.

Does anyone know if the the rudder sensor on the X52 Pro is more durable than the stock X52? My rudder sensor is haywire and if you give just a little left rudder it widly varies from slight rudder to full rudder. Its fine on most fixed wing, but on the Black Shark I can't use it at all and have to use one of the rotary dials for rudder inputs on the Ka-50.

I'd been considering another standard X52, but if the Pro would get me 50% more life, I'd pay the 50% more it costs.

pretty much the same from what i feel.

the twitchyness is because of the wires gettng cut, i had to retire my second X52 (1 pro and 1 original) because of that.

Moved to CH setup and I've never been happier, once i learned teh Software behind the sticks... it's a whole new level.

Sorry republic, can't help you there, I do know its supposed to be built better, at least that's what I've read, but I have never used a standard X-52 to compare. Mines almost exactly a year old and it's still fine, I used it while my MB was being RMAed so I didn't have to put the pedals in the living room too.

Wow Skate, were you able to determine what cuts the wires? Is it the use of rudder?