homepage Forums Air Combat & Civil Aviation Wings: Over Flanders Fields 1:32nd scale Hanriot HD.1

Hi all,
Something I don't do is to build two models at the same time.
However I'm starting a double build.
The first is the 'HPH Models' 1:32nd scale resin model of the Italian Macchi M.5 floatplane.
This is a commission build for the Commander of the Italian Frigate 'Federico Martinengo'.
His ship was named after the Italian naval pilot of WW1, Federico Carlo Martinengo.
I've previously built a version of this model and have a build log on the forum and on my web site.
The only differences between the two models will be the aircraft markings.
As such, I won't create a build log for this model here on the forum.

The second build is the 'Lukgraph' 1:32nd scale resin Hanriot HD.1.
This was on order before 'Copper State Models' announced their intention to release this model.
The model will be of the Belgian Hanriot HD.1, serial HD 24 of Willy Coppens, Escadrille 9me during 1918,

Mike

I hope the parts don't get mixed up or we might end up with this...

I'll try not to

Mike

Hi all,
The cockpit has been completed and the fuselage closed up.
As usual, working on 3D printed complete assemblies, such cockpit frames and engines, can limit what can be achieved with painting and assembly.
However, this kit didn't present too many problems.
That said I did replace the kit supplied cockpit instrument decals and pilots seat straps.
I used appropriate instrument decals from the 'Airscale' WW1 generic instrument set.
Also the kit supplied photo-etch seat belts, which are basic to say the least, are too short.
They can't be attached to where they should be on the cockpit side frames and still reach over the pilots seat.
So they were replaced with 'HGW models' fabric belts made up from my 'spares'.
I've added the following:
Throtle control rods (0.4mm Nickel Silver tube).
Fuel level indicator (0.5 mm Brass tube and copper wire).
Pulsometer pipe ('MFH' 0.4mm flexible tube).
Tachometer drive cable ('MFH' 0.4mm flexible tube).
Unidentified pipe on cockpit left (copper wire).
Machine gun trigger cable (lead wire).
Rudder, aileron and elevator control cables (0.12 mm mono-filament and 0.4 mm Brass tube).
Cockpit side, bottom and seat frame crossed bracing wires (0.12 mm mono-filament and 0.4 mm Brass tube).

The cockpit opening of this aircraft is smaller than most, so even less is visible once the fuselage is closed up.

Also the engine is complete.
The only additions made were adding valve push rods (0.4mm Nickel-Silver tube).
Spark plug ignition leads ('EZ' black line).

Mike

Amazing work!

I have to ask: What kind of glues are you using? And how well does it hold up? I'm imagining a nightmare scenario where if you ever had to move your massive collection and the boxes get a bit jarred - all that wonderful detailing becomes detached.

Hi ArgonV,
As this is a resin kit the only adhesive you can use is CA adhesive (superglue).
Normal styrene cement has no effect on resin.
As for moving the models around - the models are not fixed to their display bases, so are moved separately to the bases.
So far they've traveled well - so far!!

Mike

I don't know what it is, but this image in particular makes you realize just how incredibly fragile these machines were and how insanely dangerous it was to be a pilot in the First World War. The older I get, the more I marvel at how anyone could do this, let alone survive it.

Another beautiful model, Mike, and this one really sparked some food for thought.

Cheers!

Hi all,
All of the flight surfaces of the kit parts (wings, tail plane, elevator, ailerons, fin and rudder) have heavy and pronounced ribs, which will need sanding down.
These rib tapes caused rippling along the wing leading edges, which also needs to be removed.
Lastly, the internal metal reinforcing rods do keep the resin wings from distorting.
However they are very close to the surface and the ends have broken through the wing tips.
So filling and sanding required,

Mike

Hi all,
Well I'll start with the flight surfaces.
I've sanded down all of the over scale rib tapes on all of the flight surfaces.
I've also filled then sanded where the wing internal support rods protruded from the wing tips.

The tail plane locating recess on the rear of the fuselage has two huge 1.2 mm diameter holes.
I assume these were intended to be used to locate the tail plane onto the fuselage.
However, the underside of the resin tail plane has no locating stubs and is smooth.
To ensure the tail plane located correctly, I resorted to inserting 1.2 mm diameter tubes into the fuselage holes, with 0.5 mm diameter rods fitted in the tubes.
I drilled the locating holes through the tail plane and fitted it down onto the rods.
The fin is just a butt join to the top of the tail plane - not good.
So I drilled two 0.5 mm diameter holes in the base of the fin, so it could be located onto the protruding rods.

The rudder is also a butt join the the rear of the fin, so these were drilled and rods inserted to support the rudder.
I did the same to attach the elevator to the tail plane, which enabled me to angle the elevator down slightly.

The 3D printed tail skid support and the tail skid are again just butt joins.
Therefore, I drilled and pinned the tail skid to the bottom of the rudder post on the support frame.
This should provide a sturdier joint for the tail skid.
Also I has to sand down the over-scale thickness of the tail skid to a more 'in-scale' thickness.

The lower wing halves are intended to have rods fitted to support them in the fuselage.
Whilst the wing roots can be drilled far enough to add sufficient rods, the amount of fuselage support is minimal.
Drilling to far into the fuselage means you'll hit the cockpit internal structure or components.
The wing rods are good enough to locate the wings into the fuselage.
But I think most of the wing support will be from the adhesive joints between the wing roots and fuselage.

The upper wing halves are intended to be joined together using inserted rods, which pass through holes in the top of the 3D printed cabane struts assembly.
However, the spread of the printed cabane struts is too wide to fit into the fuselage recesses.
Pressure needs to be applied to get the struts located and given how brittle the printed resin is, they could break under pressure.
Also the ends of the struts are not shaped to fit into their locating recesses in the fuselage.
I reshaped the strut ends and managed to drill and pin the struts onto the fuselage to hold them in position.

So now it's onto sorting out the upper wing installation.
Pretty good for the kit only cost 145 GBP ???

Mike

Hi all,
Again, a problem to overcome.
The interplane struts are 3D printed so have no internal support rods.
Also, they have no end locators.
However, the upper and lower wings have locating recesses.
I assume the original intention was that rods, from presumably resin struts, would use these locating recesses.
So I drilled 0.3 mm diameter holes into the end of the struts and added Brass locating rods.
These will hopefully provide better location for the 3D printed interplane struts.
That is assuming that the brittle resin struts don't break during assembly or under the weight of the solid resin upper wing halves - we'll see,

Mike

Just a tad bit of extra work there Mike!! I am keeping my fingers crossed that those struts don't break.

Hi all,
The propeller shaft on the engine is too short to allow the propeller to be fitted and be clear of the front of the engine cowl.
Therefore, I cat away the propeller shaft from the engine.
Using as a guide, the mark left from the shaft, I gradually drilled into the engine up to a size of 1.4 mm diameter.
A length of 1.4 mm diameter Brass tube was cut and secured into the propeller locating hole, using CA adhesive.
This allows the propeller shaft to be fitted into the engine with the propeller clear of the engine cowl,

Mike

Hi all,
I've applied the required decals for this particular aircraft.
I found that as long as the decals are applied over a single colour, they do cover the painted surface under the decals.
However, the lighter coloured decals, especially the white colour, do show the painted surface through the decal.
This is more evident where light coloured decals are applied over contrasting coloured paints.
I've airbrushed a clear coat over the decals to seal and protect them during handling.
They will be airbrushed again later in the build during the weathering phase.

As the camouflage scheme is French, I painted the top of the tailplane and elevator with a base coat of 'Tamiya' Medium Blue (XF18).

The engine and engine cowl have also been fitted.

Mike

Hi all,
I've replaced three of the colours as I wasn't satisfied.
Light Green - ‘Hataka’  C093 Green (FS34258)
Dark Green - ‘Hataka’ C301 Dark Olive Green (FS34096)
Beige - ‘Hataka’ C060 USMC Sand
These have yet to be weathered so will dull down slightly.

I've fitted the single, central machine gun, using a modified 'Gaspatch' 'Vickers' 11mm 'Balloon Buster', as used by Willy Coppens.
This was p[ainted with 'Alclad' Gunmetal (ALC-120) then dry brushed with 'Mr. Colour' Super Iron 2 (SM203).

The propeller was base coated with 'Tamiya' Flat Red (XF7) and Full Red (XF19) mixed 70/30% ratio.
Windsor & Newton’ Griffin (Alkyd) Vandyke Brown oil paint was then applied to represent the wood effect.
The hub plates were brush painted with ‘Mr. Colour’ Stainless Steel (213) the ’AK Interactive’ Kerosene wash (AK2039).

The interplane struts were base coated with 'Tamiya' Desert Yellow (XF59).
Windsor & Newton’ Griffin (Alkyd) Burnt Sienna oil paint was then applied to represent the wood effect.

Whilst test fitting the tail skid, it snapped in half - no surprise given the brittleness of the 3D printed parts.
So that now needs to be addressed,

Mike

Love that! Like we don't all know when you address it, it's going to be like the most awesome thing we've ever seen!

Also, wouldn't you expect the paint to show through on the markings as originally they would have just painted over the camo on the doped canvas? Or is it especially noticeable?

Hi Rick,
I think the underlying paint colour would not be seen through another layer of applied colour for permanent National markings.
A bit like domestic emulsion paint applied over existing - it would cover.
That said, colour dopes applied to semi-cover or blend camouflage surfaces could show through.
That can be seen on some German aircraft where, in the field, the linen lozenge covering was still partially visible.
Also where National markings were changed and over painted with the new designs, but the outline of the original markings were still visible.

Mike

Hi all,
As I said previously, the 3D printed tail skid snapped in half while I was test fitting it
Rather than trying to repair and use the tail skid, I decided to scratch a replacement.
This was made using 1.4 mm diameter Brass tube and 0.5 mm diameter rod.
The tube was flattened to an airfoil profile and reinforced internally with the rod.
the kit supplied tail skid support frame has the bottom of the rudder post.
This is too long as the tail skid was attached at the bottom of the support frame.
Therefore the rudder post was shortened and a hole of 0.5 mm diameter was drilled up into the post.
This hole was used to locate the support Brass rod on the tail skid.
Once secured to the support frame, the 'bungee' type suspension cords were added, usin 'EZ' White (heavy) stretch line.

Mike

Hi all,
I've weathered the paintwork.
Airbrushed thinned 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
Airbrushed 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC311).
Applied 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt fine clay wash.
Removed the wash to leave slight staining.
Airbrush sealing coat of 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC311).

Now it's onto pre-rigging before assembly,

Mike

Hi all,
Partial construction before pre-rigging.

Mike

Hi all,
The fuselage cabane strut assembly has been fitted.
The rudder pre-rigging has been added using 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament, 0.4 mm diameter clear tube and 0.4 mm diameter blackened Brass tube.
The ailerons have also been pre-rigged using 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and 0.4 mm diameter blackened Brass tube.

Mike

I know you're a stickler for accuracy so I'm surprised by the change in fuselage colors as they seem pretty dramatic. Is this because no accurate data exists for the actual colors used?

Hi all,
The rudder, ailerons and upper wing have now been fitted.
All pre-rigging was also put in place.

However, previously when test fitting the upper wing, I found that the kit supplied 3D printed cabane side support struts were too short.
When located, they were approximately 1.0 mm clear of the fuselage.
So I modified the fuselage cabane strut assembly to lower the upper wing slightly to allow the struts to locate fully.
Now, with the upper wing fitted, I found that the struts were still too short.
Therefore, I decide to discard the kit supplied struts and create replacement struts.
These were made from 1.2 mm diameter Brass tube, formed into an airfoil profile and with internal 0.3 mm diameter Brass locating rods.

Onward upward,

Mike

Hi CC,
I decided to change the green colours loosely based on the following research.
Here's two charts (slight differences) which shows what the colours were thought to be.
Research carried out by author Marc Chassard.
He spent a long time researching camouflage colours of French WW1 aircraft.

Mike

Hi all,
The Hanriot HD.1 of the Belgian pilot Willy Coppens of the 9th Escadrille, Belgium, 1918.

Thanks for your support and comment during this build,

Mike

Looks fantastic!

I have been meaning to post these for a while in relation to our conversation on painting doped fabric but the archaic forum tools are definitely a big dissuasion.

These are from the Owl's Head Transportation Museum.

Hi Rick,
Thanks - good information is always appreciated,

Mike