After a long hiatus ending with a total systems reformat and before reinstalling the controllers, I decided to make the controller mounts for my chair, that has been bubbling around in my head for a while.
Happy Simming.
Hey Dan,
I'm curious... What monitors are you using for your MFDs? I've been trying to figure out a MFD solution and have several ideas floating around in my head. I like the mini-usb monitor idea but it seems to be hit or miss.
My main screens are running on a GeForce GTX 970. Even though that it has 6 connections, it can only use 4 outputs at the same time.
I got a GeForce GT 710 to run the 8" screens
I have had them up and running MFCD exports with DCS World, But I am currently in the process of setting up everything after a systems reformat and upgrade to DCS World 2.5.
I bought 2 of these: Eyoyo S801C Super 8 Inch IPS LCD Monitor 1204x768.
I would recommend getting those mentioned later instead.
There are some major and minor drawbacks on these.
Major There are holes in the right places for Vesa mounts, but there are no metal threads for mounting. I guess they have chosen to omit the nuts for some reason. The USB-C socket is not raised from the back of the screen, so the cable delivered can't be used, it is not possible to plug it in. I only noticed this on the online pics after I had gotten them. Minor In both of my examples the finger bolt in the stand where to long, so it would hit the back of the screen before tightening on the Tslot plate.
I solved this by adding a washer, to the bolt on the rear of the stand.
The Tslot plate is very thin and flimsy and the hole in the stand for the finger bolt, is a mishap just waiting. I could not feel that I was deforming the Tslot plate with the square nut, while tightening the finger bolt. I also managed to to strip the thread from one of the square nut in the process.
The finger bolt and square nut are using the same thread as camera mounts. 1/4 20 BSW Whitworth
I very much recommend adding some washers to the hole, so it is not possible to pull the plate into it.
I had broken the stuff myself, but the seller was willing to send me 2 Tslot plates and 2 square nuts for free. I had to cover the shipping cost myself and that would be 15 pounds.
For 16 pounds I bought a set of 1/4 20 BSW Whitworth taps and made my own replacement square nut.
These are the ones I would recommend or some similar.
Here are a few pics of a yoke made recently. It's based loosely on a Lanc yoke. I've used hall sensors for the x and y, motorcycle handlebar kill switches as triggers and it's all wired into a bodnar board. It's my first time using hall sensors and I'm really impressed with them and how accurate they seem to be over potentiometers.
I made an improvement to my pit. I recessed the Throttle and Joystick. I think they look much better especially since you can't see the wires any longer.
Main PC: ASUS P8Z77 - Intel I7 3770K OC to 4.4GHZ - Thermaltake Water2.0 Pro GeForce GTX 970 16 Gig G.Skill Ares DDR3 Samsung EVO SSD 500GB Plenty of storage Windows 7 64bit ASUS PB278Q @ 2560x1440
SIMPIT: ASUS Prime Z370-A, I7 8700K, H80i-V2 watercooler ASUS ROG STRIX RTX 2080 Windows 10 64bit 32GB 2400 DDR4 memory Thrustmaster Warthog - 2-TM MFDs Saitek Combat Rudder Pedals,4 -FIPs, TPM, Radio, Multipanel, Switch Panel, Pro Flight Yoke 3 - 32" Samsung monitors-1920x1080, 22" Samsung monitor
RalphROVpilot-That looks outstanding and very realistic! Kudos!
Main PC: ASUS P8Z77 - Intel I7 3770K OC to 4.4GHZ - Thermaltake Water2.0 Pro GeForce GTX 970 16 Gig G.Skill Ares DDR3 Samsung EVO SSD 500GB Plenty of storage Windows 7 64bit ASUS PB278Q @ 2560x1440
SIMPIT: ASUS Prime Z370-A, I7 8700K, H80i-V2 watercooler ASUS ROG STRIX RTX 2080 Windows 10 64bit 32GB 2400 DDR4 memory Thrustmaster Warthog - 2-TM MFDs Saitek Combat Rudder Pedals,4 -FIPs, TPM, Radio, Multipanel, Switch Panel, Pro Flight Yoke 3 - 32" Samsung monitors-1920x1080, 22" Samsung monitor
Nice!! How did you cut out the circle for they joystick? And what's that black ring you've used? Nothing similar for the throttle? My next project just may be a recessed HOTAS setup!
Ice- Thanks.I used a jigsaw and a steady hand after tracing the base of the stick. The black ring is rubber window molding. The throttle was cut much closer so I didn't need anything to fill any gaps.
Main PC: ASUS P8Z77 - Intel I7 3770K OC to 4.4GHZ - Thermaltake Water2.0 Pro GeForce GTX 970 16 Gig G.Skill Ares DDR3 Samsung EVO SSD 500GB Plenty of storage Windows 7 64bit ASUS PB278Q @ 2560x1440
SIMPIT: ASUS Prime Z370-A, I7 8700K, H80i-V2 watercooler ASUS ROG STRIX RTX 2080 Windows 10 64bit 32GB 2400 DDR4 memory Thrustmaster Warthog - 2-TM MFDs Saitek Combat Rudder Pedals,4 -FIPs, TPM, Radio, Multipanel, Switch Panel, Pro Flight Yoke 3 - 32" Samsung monitors-1920x1080, 22" Samsung monitor
Main PC: ASUS P8Z77 - Intel I7 3770K OC to 4.4GHZ - Thermaltake Water2.0 Pro GeForce GTX 970 16 Gig G.Skill Ares DDR3 Samsung EVO SSD 500GB Plenty of storage Windows 7 64bit ASUS PB278Q @ 2560x1440
SIMPIT: ASUS Prime Z370-A, I7 8700K, H80i-V2 watercooler ASUS ROG STRIX RTX 2080 Windows 10 64bit 32GB 2400 DDR4 memory Thrustmaster Warthog - 2-TM MFDs Saitek Combat Rudder Pedals,4 -FIPs, TPM, Radio, Multipanel, Switch Panel, Pro Flight Yoke 3 - 32" Samsung monitors-1920x1080, 22" Samsung monitor
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