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awesome info and advice on using flash (Canon EOS specific, but useful stuff can be found for everyone)

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/index.html

Inline advert (2nd and 3rd post)

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Thanks for the Info, i am looking at getting a Cannon rebal XTI if things go right in the next few days...


Arrow Photographics. since 2003.
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While pointing your camera at the sky, waiting for the next plane to come along, you might want to try some of these weather and astronomical photography tips...

http://www.weatherscapes.com/index.php

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XboxLive Tag: DOBrienTG1969

Dave O'Brien,
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does any one have any links to websites selling second hand (other than e-bay) ,this is the only one i could find http://www.mpbphotographic.co.uk/


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If you're looking for expert and user reviews for a wide range of digital cameras, this site (http://www.smartratings.com/photography/digital_cameras), should be worth looking into. It has a compilation of all the reviews for every product listed.

Last edited by askins46; 04/25/07 01:38 AM.
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All I know is I wish I would have known shooting in RAW allowed to easily adjust white-balance after the fact. I will be using that from now on.

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The links just helped me a ton, plan on takin pics at the local airshow this year, thnx for the help \:\)


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http://www.borrowlenses.com/

this site has teamed up with Fencecheck, some great prices to borrow a great lens either for a weekend of a full week!


XboxLive Tag: DOBrienTG1969

Dave O'Brien,
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Some software to consider,

Adobe Lightroom and Apple Aperture if you're one of 'those' people

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Guys,

yesterday i visited Duxford flying legends and was keen to try out the prop blur settings. This was my first "prop" flightshow and i couldnt achieve prop blur frown. As soon as i set the shutter speed below 1/600 the pictures where getting whiter and whiter, going to 1/65 made the pictures completly white.

Any advise and help is appriciated.

Cheers

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Sounds like you were in manual and didnt adjust aperture and/or ISO accordingly. Slower shutter speeds needed for prop blur let in more light, so you have to subsequently reduce the light for a correct exposure by letting less in (aperture to f8,f11,f16,f22) or reducing light sensitivity (ISO 50,100,200 instead of 800,1600,3200). The three are interrelated, so if you halve the shutter from 1/125 to 1/60 you will need to go from f5.6 to f8 or from ISO 400 to 200 to maintain roughly the same exposure - although both may introduce other effects you may or may not want.

It is possible in very bright light - especially with point and shoots, to find the light so bright that the camera can't achieve a speed slow enough without over-exposing. I had that at Silverstone once with my S1IS when trying for wheel blur. For a DSLR this situation is less likely because you normally have access to much smaller apertures, but the solution is to use a ND filter or a lens which has more f stops.

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Thanks for your input U-96. I think i need couple of shots til i get it right.

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Thanks for sharing man!

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Is there such thing as a "good" tripod? Would like to buy one to film my daughter playing softball.

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